Monday, May 25, 2015

I have found Das Flat!

So, I found a flat! *cue applause*

This past Thursday, I spent all day viewing 9 different properties with my relocation consultant. I was pleasantly surprised in that only one of them resulted in me making the "icky face" - i.e. I walk in, look around and immediately think "Nope, nope, nope and hell to the nope". I couldn't help but compare this experience to my flat-hunting in London - what a difference it makes to have a professional consultant helping!

I saw some gorgeous apartments, all in different styles. There was the newly renovated old sewing factory loft-style apartment, which had tons of light but was in a more industrial area. There was the absolutely gorgeous pre-war apartment with vaulted ceilings but with way, way too much space. I didn't want a tiny box like I had in England, but I'm also only one person and I don't want to pay a fortune in utilities. I saw two very cool apartments which were in refurbished older buildings and right on the high street of a main neighborhood. I liked them very much but they had what I call the stairway of death - a true corkscrew stairway. I don't mean winding. I mean corkscrew. Like you see in some lofts or outside buildings for fire escapes. I was scared going up and down and I couldn't even imagine navigating it on a daily basis. I don't mind the lack of elevator, but I don't want to meet my end through an unfortunate slip on some German stairs.

In the end, I chose the apartment that gave me the most happy feelings when I walked in. It is in Frankfurt's northern West End, in a building built in 1902. There is a lovely older "housekeeper" who lives in the bottom flat. (In Germany, I suppose this is a bit like a superintendent, but without the toolbelt, attitude problem and plumber butt). The apartment has 2 bedrooms, a large living room, a typically small kitchen and 1 1/2 baths. It's older, so it has a unique flow - I will have to walk through the living room to get to the bathroom - but that doesn't really bother me. It has beautiful bay windows, parquet floors and pocket doors. I know this style isn't for everyone, but I LOVED it.

Interestingly enough, it will cost me about the same as what I was paying in Philadelphia. The difference is that I have to purchase my own washer/dryer and refrigerator, as well as wardrobes for storing my clothing and shoes. However, considering that in German it is normal to often have to buy the entire KITCHEN (yes, this is true, and I will go into this in another post), I figure I got off easy. I can't wait to move in (July 1st!) and truly get settled.

The flat is in a wonderful neighborhood, and in less than 10 minutes I can get to a supermarket, several cafes, several restaurants, a gorgeous park, the Palmengarten (like a conservatory/botanical garden) and the U-Bahn. I can even walk to "old town" Frankfurt in about 20 minutes should I feel like a bit of death by tourist. I plan on getting a bike - with basket! with bell! - and exploring all that Frankfurt has to offer.


The outside of the building. My flat is the third window up (just above the balcony)

The living room - look at those windows!!!

My bedroom - I can't wait to put a chair and read in that little nook

The entry way

The guest bedroom - now accepting reservations! ;)

The kitchen - very German, very functional

Wednesday, May 20, 2015

Das Arzt

I'm writing this from the waiting room of the doctor's office where I am getting my "tune-up" (Germlish for check-up). My company has an on-site clinic, which is very convenient - especially as most of the staff speak a least a bit of English. 

I just had blood drawn and had to pee in a cup. It was a different experience. The nurse did not wear gloves. The whole process took about 5 minutes and was ridiculously efficient. The clinic itself is dated - looks a lot like my elementary school - but very clean. I don't know what the rest of German healthcare is like but so far, so good. Now, if I can just get out of here without stepping on a scale...

Sunday, May 17, 2015

4 Weeks In...

So, Friday was officially my 4th week in Germany. I sort of feel like I should win a prize! But seriously, the time has flown by. I feel more comfortable every day, although it is still very uncomfortable not to be able to understand a word around me. As you know, I have traveled quite a bit and so I'm used to being in places where I don't speak the language - but there is something very different about being on holiday in a foreign country and actually living in one.

I have often said that I found England hard to adjust to - mostly because the language was (for the most part) the same, and I kept expecting things to work the way they did in America. My theory was that it would be easier in a country where I didn't speak the language, because there would be no expectation. Well, yes and no. Yes in that I approach everything - be it finding the post office or taking out the garbage - with fresh eyes. No in that it is surprisingly hard to get things done when you don't know where to go or how to do it - and what's worse, you don't know how to ask for help.

Case in point. I had a bit of a shopping explosion in the Heathrow airport a few weeks ago and bought some shirts that ended up not fitting correctly. (This is what happens when one's flight gets inexplicably delayed and one has an extra hour to wander T5 on 4 hours sleep.) I was very pleased to find out that Heathrow allows mail returns of anything purchased in their duty-free shops for 60 days. I was less pleased that I would therefore have to figure out how to mail a package from Germany. I googled the post office, but it appeared to be located in a very far (not walkable) place, and I wasn't in the mood yesterday to go on another driving adventure. I had seen a lot of signs in the town that said "Packet Shop", which led me to believe that maybe one of the small stores was a UPS or FedEx outlet or similar. It took me two tries in two different stores before I met a very kindly German man who pointed me in the right direction. He had that bizarre, overly rounded vowely-accent which results from someone who is a native speaker of a non-romance language spending a lot of time in England. He also spoke really, really good English and was able to clue me in on the entire process, which was so helpful.

As an aside, I have always been passionate about literacy and education. These past few weeks have really underscored this, and I plan on donating heavily this year to a few foundations specializing in encouraging adult literacy. It is absolutely terrifying at times to be surrounded by information that you cannot digest. It's overwhelming, frustrating and discouraging. I know I can't imagine what it is like to be an adult who cannot read, but I'm getting just a small taste and it is not fun. Even more so - and this will shock a lot of people who know me - I'm feeling a bit more understanding towards recent immigrants to the United States. Call them legal, illegal, what have you - I'm not going there right now. But I'm getting a feel for why businesses offer Spanish. I never could have opened my bank account had there not been someone in the Deutsche Bank who spoke English. I would have had no idea what I was signing up for. I know I would not be able to find a proper place to live without the help of Julia, my trusty relocation consultant. And god forbid I would try to buy a car or other large purchase in German - pretty sure my interest rate would be 900% percent. As an American - even a well-traveled one - I am still guilty of assuming that someone will speak English. And this is largely true. I can't imagine showing up in a country and finding that no one really understands you, or speaks your language. 
NOW, one could argue that I should have learned German before coming. And they are right. I really should have taken some rudimentary lessons during my weeks off work. And if I ever move to another country with a language I don't speak, I will. It would have helped immensely. And also, I do plan to learn the language while I'm here. The difference is that my company is paying for face to face intensive lessons from Berlitz to get me to fluency. I have long argued that people coming to the US should "learn English". I still agree, and I also think it may be easier than other languages since most of the world has some sort of English TV available. That being said, my stance is softening just a tiny bit as I imagine what my life would be like if I moved to Germany on my own, in hopes of making a life for myself and/or my family - and I had no help in learning the language. I'm an autodidact so I'd be all over the library and anything I could get my hands on - but I'm the exception, not the norm. 
I'm not necessarily getting all soft in my old age - but what I am saying is that the world isn't nearly so black and white, and that I'm seeing how issues don't necessarily have a simple solution (i.e. "learn English"). It's far more complex - and not to get into politics, but IF the US is going to rely on labor from those from other countries, THEN there needs to be a reasonable path to citizenship (and not the 8+ years it normally takes), AND there needs to be some sort of support system for integration. It isn't fair to say "integrate" and leave people alone. And while I recognize that people from other countries - from Asia, or Russia or the Middle East - have come to the US and learned English despite it being a different alphabet and structure entirely, for every person you find in those households who speaks passable English, there are many more who are just getting by. Anyway, something to think about.

So, back to my post office adventure. I found a small store that also has a Deutsche Post and DHL service. I was able - with a bit of pantomiming and Google Translate - to purchase a small box, and then ship my belongings. I'm finding that Germany is no different than any other country. As long as you try to speak the language, people tend to be fairly willing to meet you halfway. I also think that these Germans know their language is a bit cray-cray, and they take pity on foreigners.

Of course, this doesn't stop me from lying awake some nights wondering what I would do if I were really in an emergency. I wonder if I called #110 (or is it #112 - I get fire and emergency confused) and just started yelling "Hilfe! Das murder, das murder!" if it would get the job done. I'd like to think so - but then again, if das murder was really happening, I'm pretty sure the murderer would not give me time to work through that kind of explanation.


So, beyond learning German, when I get to Frankfurt (which is where I've 99% decided I'm going to live), I'm going to sign up for self-defense classes. I may fancy myself a part-time ninja, but I'd like to go full-on Bruce Lee and be able to defend myself. Germany is a very safe country, and I don't anticipate anything happening - but the fact that I can't articulate myself very well makes me want to be sure I can speak the universally-understood language of a good old-fashioned ass-kicking ;)

And now it's off to the never-ending piles of laundry, and some catching up on my reading. This coming week is going to be crazy busy - tons of meetings, German lessons, house-hunting and a flight to the US - so I'm enjoying my downtime while I have it.

E-Fed out.

Saturday, May 16, 2015

A Saturday of Many Adventures

Today's adventures for your reading pleasure...

Chapter 1: In which your fearless author learns all about German recycling

I woke up early this morning and drove to the Real. (You may recall from earlier posts that this is something akin to a Wal-mart.) I had been advised by the relocation advisor to buy a fan as soon as possible, as Germany is notorious for a) not having air conditioning and b) the stores running out of fans as soon as a warm spell hits. I also was eager to try out the mystery of recycling my plastic and glass bottles, as a co-worker had clued me into the purpose of the weird looking machines in every grocery store.
This is what the recycling machines look like.
It turns out to be ridiculously easy. You put your bottle in the hole, lying flat. The machine scans the barcode. If it is an "accepted" bottle, an amount shows up on the screen and the bottle disappears. The machine also has a spot at the bottom for people load crates of used bottles. This is quite common as I've noticed that Germans tend to buy their water by the crate. They also don't seem to drink tap water, and think Americans are crazy for doing so. Every time a German finds out that I not only drink, but love, wasser mit kohlensauer (water with carbonation, basically), they go crazy with applauding my good taste and commenting on the poor water-drinking habits of Americans. So I put my bottles in the machine and received at receipt entitling me to 0,75 Euro. Easy money, considering I was getting about half the purchase price back per bottle.

Chapter II: In which your fearless author learns the power of the Google Translate App

I then went in search of a fan. I figured this would be fairly easy, as most appliances tend to have boxes with pictures on them. What I didn't expect was for there to be so many versions of fans. I suppose it is still a bit early to be buying one (as the temperatures haven't gotten above about 75F), but I was still a bit surprised. I harnessed the power of the camera function on the Google Translate App to be sure I was getting the right kind of fan (there were desk fans, heat fans (?), rotating fans, air fans (again a ??), and so on and so forth). I finally found a reasonably priced oscillating tall fan and went to check out. Now, my German is improving by the day. I can say hello, and thank you, and that's all, and I can even understand a few numbers. What I didn't understand was the minute long speech I received upon buying the fan. I suppose my look of blankness caused the cashier to take pity on me, as she then switched to broken, heavily accented English to explain that my receipt carried a warranty for the fan and that I needed to keep the receipt. It was kind of her to make sure I understood. I thanked her profusely, apologizing all the while and muttering "klein Deutsch, klein Deutsch" -- which literally means "small German". The entire line found this very funny and I left, glad to have brought some amusement to their day.

Chapter III: In which your fearless author threatens to shank her GPS

I sort of know the way home from the REAL, and so I was surprised when my sat nav (GPS) decided to take me a different route. I was skeptical, as they are doing some major construction on a few government buildings right down the road from me, but I put my trust in TomTom in hopes of finding a new shortcut. So, yeah. TomTom is clearly not in the loop with regard to big ass holes in the ground and road closures. Despite the software being updated like 2 weeks ago, my buddy Tom kept trying to take me straight through a construction zone. Every time I tried to go around it, I got re-routed back the same way. I finally decided to go old-school and use my (very) latent navigational skills... which took me in exactly the right direction, and put me on my street exactly where I thought I would end up. It helps that the town isn't big at all, and that the huge crater in the road creates a nice frame of reference.

Chapter IV: In which your fearless author wanders, fights with Vodafone, and meets some nice French boys

I decided to go back out into the town square after unloading my fan, as it happened to be a beautiful day and there was a farmer's market going on. I also needed to have some words with the Vodafone rep, as they are always closed when I am coming home from work. I stopped there first. Turns out my English-speaking buddy who set up my account was not working. I never did get the name of the guy who was working, but he looked just like that German kid from Charlie and the Chocolate Factory (the original) if he were about 25. And he spoke basically no English. I kept using Google Translate to explain that my bill was wrong, and asked him to look it up on the computer and fixed it. He pointed at the computer as if it were a weapon of mass destruction, shook his head and kept saying "Montag, Montag you comes." Apparently Monday is the day when the English-speaking staff work. So, since the hours are all crazy, I am going to try to call on Monday and see if I can get anywhere. My bill is essentially triple what it should be. Why is it that no matter what the country, telecommunications are always a hot mess?!

The upside is that I ended up walking further down the road to blow off some steam and I discovered that the town has a Woolworth. Might be the only Woolworth still in business for all I know. But I was able to buy a (non-demonically possessed) toaster, a kettle and a few odds and ends (hangers, some plastic bins, etc). I also got the same receipt speech. Seems my 10 Euro toaster is guaranteed for 2 years. Right on, Germany.

The farmer's market was predictable - some bread stands, a cheese stand, a huge vegetable stand and a whole stand filled with olives and other weird stuff - like spreads and jellies and all sorts of things that I wanted no part of. The place was jam-packed with the over 60 crowd, who were all about getting das shop on. None of the vendors spoke a lick of English - which meant the only thing I was able to successfully buy was bread. I tried to buy some vegetables but the urgency of the crowd meant that the lady selling them had no time for my version of charades and pretty much just gave up on me. I even had my travel phrase book with me but clearly my pronunciation leaves a lot to be desired because she was just not picking up what I was laying down.

Imagine my delight when I spotted a French flag and a table selling all sorts of goodies from France. I hoped for the best and began speaking French - and the looks on the faces of the two teenage boys behind the stand revealed that they were just as as happy as I was not to have to deal with the German for a bit. We had a nice chat about the weather, the day, the market, their trip over from France, etc. I didn't really need anything they were selling, but I bought some sea salt just to be a good sport. (I used some tonight during dinner - it was well worth the 2 Euro!) The guys were nice and invited me to a "disco" tonight (there's a disco in Ingelheim? Pretty sure it couldn't have been in this town), but I wisely declined - seeing as how I'm probably at least 15 years older than them.

I have my first German lesson Monday morning and the thing I'm looking forward to most is learning how the various letters sound. Words are starting to make sense, but I can't seem to make them sound the way they should. I don't think it will happen overnight, but I'm determined to master this language. By the end of the year, I want to be able to have an easily understood conversation - and not just with myself!


Tomorrow is Sunday, which of course means everything is geschlossen. So I plan to do laundry, clean and read. Mostly just laze around because I'll be away/traveling the next two weekends. I bought some walnut pastry thing from the bread man at the market - can't even begin to remember the full name, as I couldn't even pronounce it and had to just point at it - and so I plan to try that with some coffee for breakfast tomorrow. Slowly working my way through the 300 breads of Germany, one day at a time...

Thursday, May 14, 2015

Umbrellas and Fuse Boxes and Tomatoes, Oh My!

Umbrellas
What is with Germany and umbrellas? Yesterday I was walking home from work and it was pouring rain. I was the only person with an umbrella. And when I say the ONLY person, I mean the ONLY person. I saw no one on my campus with an umbrella. No one at the train station. No one on my walk home. In fact, people looked at ME weird for having an umbrella. I don't know if the German way is to just walk through the rain, convinced of one's own invincibility, but my years in England taught me to never be without protection from a sudden rainstorm. Although I'd like to add that the rain was in no way sudden, as every forecast I saw (from my iPhone to the newspaper at the train station to the intranet at work) predicted an afternoon rainstorm. If anyone has any insight to this, I'd be very interested...

I Should Not Be an ElectricianI was off work today in celebration of something called Ascension Day. Seems this is a Catholic holiday that happens roughly 40 days after Easter. I'm not sure why it is a public holiday, but I'm not arguing having a random Thursday off. I slept in a bit and decided to make myself a nice brunch, consisting of scrambled eggs and white asparagus. (As an aside, asparagus is very big here. In fact, it is right now what is called "Spargel Season" - season of the Asparagus - and the big, thick, white asparagus is everywhere. I happen to LOVE asparagus, and so this makes me very happy.) I put a load of laundry in the washing machine (one thing about Europe - you are ALWAYS doing laundry. Because there are no dryers, and the washing machines are about the size of a small cereal box inside, this means that a normal American-size load of clothes takes at least 2 to 3 loads and about a week to get through), and fired up the coffee machine. I put the pans on the stove - one for the eggs and one for the water for the asparagus and then dug out the toaster that came with the apartment.

I plugged it in, and put a piece of bread in. Pushed down the lever. Nothing. I tried a few times before deciding that the toaster was broken. So I went back to the eggs. They seemed to be taking a really long time to cook. After a few moments, I noticed how quiet the apartment suddenly was - and I realized that the power had gone out. I opened my window to see if it was a neighborhood-wide thing (did they turn the power off on Ascension Day? Did someone hit a pole?), but I could still hear the crosswalk beeping and music from next door. I remembered seeing a fuse box in my hallway.

And now this is where I have to (in advance) defend myself a bit by saying sometimes I'm the dumbest smart person you'll ever meet. I opened the fuse box. All in German, but the concept was similar to American set-ups. Lots of small switches for the various rooms/outlets and one master switch. And so I flicked the master switch. Twice. And nothing happened. Those of you with any technical acumen at all will realize that I simply turned it on and then off again. I, however, did not realize this and found myself quite perplexed. I considered calling the local electric company, until I remembered it was a holiday and everything was closed. I thought about calling my landlord for the temporary flat, until I remembered she doesn't speak English and isn't exactly speedy to respond. I then spent about 15 minutes puzzling this through before it occurred to me that I would have to shower in cold water unless I figured this out. I opened the door to my hallway. The hallway lights were on. Thus, it was clearly an issue with my apartment.

So, back to the fuse box. This time, for whatever reason, I only flipped the master switch once. And voila! Power! Let there be light, and so forth. It occurred to me that maybe the toaster wasn't working before because there was no power. So I grabbed it and plugged it back in. Suddenly, no more power.
It didn't take the cast of CSI for me to figure out that either the outlet was bad or the toaster was bad - but that either way, I didn't need toast that badly. I'm sure I could have experimented with different outlets (although my flat has a grand total of about five that I could find across five rooms) but I prudently decided it was best not to mess with the electricity and to take my victories as they came, small as they might be - and so I flipped the master fuse switch again, and got back to the business of brunch.

Tomatoes
Which brings me to the tomato situation. Tomatoes in Germany are DELICIOUS, and remind me of the ones my mom used to grow. They are a zillion times better than the crap sold in American grocery stores - Whole Foods included. They actually taste like tomatoes. And they are firm, and round and fresh. I'm also pretty sure they are only available on a seasonal basis (at least here in Ingelheim - maybe in Frankfurt they will have the hothouse versions year-round), which accounts for them tasting so good. Either way, I am LOVING having such fresh produce. The same goes for the peppers, onions and salad greens I've bought. I can't always find everything (been searching desperately for fresh spinach), but what I do find is fresh, crisp and reasonably priced. Germans may eat the hell out of bread and schnitzel but their produce is on point.

That's all for today. I'm headed off to bed soon, content to fall asleep to the sound of the dishwasher (POWER IS ON!!!) -which, in an interesting turn of events, is supposed to be uber-environmentally friendly and takes 3 hours and 15 minutes to do one load of dishes.

Wednesday, May 13, 2015

Three Weeks In

I'm three weeks into living in Germany, and on Day 8 of my job. So, what have I learned so far?

More Friendly Than Expected
While Germans aren't big on smiling, the majority of the people I have met have been very friendly. Even the woman working the bread/pastry at the Rewe (grocery store) has warmed up to me. I have been stopping there every morning to grab something for breakfast (my own sort of "collect the pastries! Try them all!" experiment which I justify to myself because I have a 3 mile round trip walk to/from work every day). She has gone from surly and rude to now trying to have all sorts of conversations with me. She clearly knows I'm not German, so I applaud the effort. However, the conversations have been going like this as of late:
Me: "Morgan!"
Her: "Morgan! Kann ich dich hilfen?" (I get this - this is "Can I you help" literally)
Me: "Ja. Ein {insert name of delicious pastry I have chosen}, bitte. Aus haus." (That means "to go", or literally "out of the house")
Her: "Wünschen Sie noch etwas?"(Took me awhile, but this means, would you like anything else)Me: "Nein, bitte."
So far, so good, right? Yeah. Until we get to this part.
Her: "das fleegen und das urgeshcrewgen flagen unt duss muss rechning verbindgunestenien unglend nicht bergaaasden das umstang bang bang?"
Okay, so it isn't exactly that bad, but that's what it sounds like. Yesterday I could have bet money she was asking me about the "protracted polyurethane donuts turtles many shoes".
Me: (big, moronic smile) "Er... ja! Danke! Tschuss!" and then I just get the hell out of there. I have no idea what I have agreed to in the past days, but saying yes and thank you seems to be an acceptable response.

No clothes? No problem.
In the past week, while walking home from work (which takes me across my campus, through a tunnel under the train station, past the entrance for an underground garage and then through part of the main square of town), I have seen:

- A buck naked child running amuck amongst her fully clothed parents. The little girl was about 7. She was running around the entrance of the grocery store, and then followed her parents down into the parking garage. To put this in context, there is no daycare nearby. There is no pool. There is no public toilet. There is no fountain. In short, there is no reason for the child to be naked other than her simply saying, "Hmm, I'm tired of these clothes now" and just taking them all off. Her parents were quite serenely carrying her clothes and shoes while the child pranced around. People walking by didn't give a second look. I don't think they even really noticed. I noticed, because a naked kid running free isn't exactly normal where I come from (unless you're under the age of 5, and there is a sprinkler nearby and your parents were hippies).

- Several, and I mean SEVERAL, people just wandering about with no shoes. These are well-dressed individuals. They are not carrying shoes, or a bag that could contain shoes. They give no indication, in fact, of even being aware that footwear is required. They are just wandering the town square, the grocery store, my street, etc, barefoot. Which I find especially odd, as everything I've read has indicated the Germans aren't too big on sandals and showing of the feet in general.

Schitnzel. It's what's for dinner. And lunch. And breakfast.
This may just be because I'm in the tiny town of Ingelheim, but the darn schnitzel is EVERYWHERE. Yesterday, my lunch choices were (as far as I could tell, as it was all in German): some sort of buckwheat surprise (pass), a sausage ghoulash (double pass), a bunch of vegetables sauteed in butter (pass) with a cream sauce (pass pass pass), some fish situation (pass) and then a salad with chicken schnitzel and potato cubes, which is what I chose out of desperation.

I wish I had taken a photo. It literally was a huge bowl filled with salad leaves and then topped with about a half a cup of roasted potato cubes and several small medallions of chicken schnitzel. No other veggies. There were weird dressings/toppings on the side but they all looked suspiciously milk based and we all know I am only willing to suffer stomach cramps for ice cream and hot chocolate. Some of the dressings looked like a milk plus sausage situation, which also did not seem like an especially good idea. To be fair, the alleged "salad" wasn't bad per se - but it was definitely an odd combination.

And I don't get the schnitzel fascination. When I go to grab my breakfast, the hot food counter is doing a roaring business in schnitzel and sausage sandwiches and rotisserie chicken. And no, I don't mean breakfast sausage, or even British sausage. I mean big old German sausage. And sauerkraut. Looks like Oktoberfest at 8 in the morning, minus the beer. And then if I stop in the store on the way home, the checkout line is usually full of people buying all sorts of schnitzel and sausage and whatnot. I have tried the schnitzel. It is essentially breaded meat, I think fried or baked. It is good, but nothing to go crazy for. So, I repeat. I don't. get. the. schnitzel.

Germans love cigarettes.
I work in the pharmaceutical industry. I work amongst highly-educated people, most of whom have some sort of scientific background. And yet... when I walk to work, or walk outside to go to the cafeteria, SMOKE BOMB!!! I have been utterly shocked by the amount of people I see smoking. And not just casually smoking - smoking as if their lives depended on it. This is some prison-yard, Orange is the New Black, Welcome to Oz grade smoking. In the time it took me to go from one building to another (about 2 min), I watched one woman get through two cigarettes. Luckily most of the restaurants, bars and other public places have gone smoke-free, but most train stations still have the Pigpen-style cloud of smoke hovering around them.

The 80s are still alive?
I have seen more mullets than I expected, and more feathered hair than I thought was possible, given the proximity to the second decade of the 21st century. And while I get that certain fashion trends from the 80s are "back", I'm pretty sure they never left for some individuals in this town. I saw a full-on Run DMC get up yesterday (track suit, huge gold chain) worn without even a hint of irony or hipsterish self-awareness. I've seen fringe. And not just fringe - suede fringe (and for my English friends, I don't mean bangs, I mean whatever you call that fashion option where fabric is cut into tiny pieces and then dangles). I've seen more neon than is good for anyone, and I am no longer surprised that David Hasselhoff is big news here.




All in all, I'm having a great time. Although I would be lying if I didn't add that I am looking forward to my US trips already, because TARGET.

Thursday, May 7, 2015

Sprechen Sie Deutsch?


“When I use a word,” Humpty Dumpty said in rather a scornful tone, “it means just what I choose it to mean – neither more nor less.”
“The question is,” said Alice, “whether you can make words mean so many different things.”
“The question is,” said Humpty Dumpty, “which is to be master - - that’s all.”
I spent the past two days at an off-site meeting at a hotel in Frankfurt with my new team and some colleagues in from the US and the rest of Europe. I was largely surrounded by either native German speakers, or people who had learned, and could speak the language fluently. The meeting was in English, but side conversations frequently devolved from English to Germlish to full on-German. Me being me, I tried to listen closely to add to my (small) arsenal of words. So, what did I learn?

I learned that I really need formal lessons.
1) I still cannot handle the word for Excuse me. It’s “entschuldigen”. Doesn’t exactly roll-off the tongue. And when you bump into someone, the first thought isn’t “let me translate quickly”. So I ended up mumbling either “Sorry, sorry!”, “Bitte” (which means please) or “Pardon” (said in a French accent as my brain would go into language spasms and spit out the first language it learned). One time I did manage the “Entshul–” part before just giving up, and basically saying “Entshulde-scuse me”.

2) I really, really need help with pronunciation. I was telling some colleagues about the trip that Wendi and I took to Zugspitze. I kept getting blank looks. I doubled down on the “zzz” sound. Blank looks. Added in few “hhhhhhghhh” sounds (as Germans seem to be fond of this noise). Still blank looks. Exasperation set in. “You know,” I said, “The highest point in Germany?”

“Ohhhhhhh!!!” Came the replies. “You mean ZUGSPITZE!”.
Me: “Yes, Zugspitze.”

Germans: “Ehhh, no. It’s Zugspitze.”

Anyway, after a lot of back and forth (and a beer or two), turns out that the “z” in German is not a “zzzzeeee” sound or even a “zzzz”. It’s more of a “tscchhh”, which results in the word sounding more like “tshoogspitsuh”. Which of course sounds perfectly reasonable AFTER the explanation.

3) I’ve been told I have a very expressive face and very expressive mannerisms. This has come in handy before (i.e. when I forgot the French word for lobster - homard - and did my best claw-hands interpretation in Paris), and it continues to serve me well here. I had my colleagues in tears explaining my recent trip to the supermarket to buy a rotisserie chicken.
There is a counter right in the front of the Reve (grocery store) and within lie all sorts of yummy goodies. Lots of schnitzel-y stuff and a whole tray of golden roasted, NORMAL-SIZED chickens. For just 3,50 Euro. And I wanted one in my belly. Now, the German word for chicken is Hähnchen. I knew this. (HOW exactly I knew this I’m not sure, but I have never ceased being surprised by my ability to almost unconsciously absorb foreign names for food and drink - shows my priorities, I suppose!) The problem was I did not know how to say it. That magic a with the umlaut (two dots above) was a mystery. So I guessed. Wrongly.

Me: “Ein haaaanshen, bitte.” (Proud smile)
Woman behind the counter: “Entschuldigen, was?” (at least that’s what I THINK she said)
Me: “Haaaansheen! Bitte!” (Embarassed to say I spoke loudly and slowly)
Woman: (doesn’t speak, just begins pointing at the various things in the case, hoping that I will identify what I want and let her get on with her life)
Me: (pointing to the chicken) “Haaaansheen!” And then for added measure, I did the first part of the chicken dance - you know where you use your arms to make the wings. And yes, that worked, although she didn’t even crack a smile.

Turns out, after my boss stopped laughing, he explained that the word is actually pronounced “hENshin” (almost rhyming with pension). I maintained that the woman HAD to know what I was trying to say, but these Germans are a very literal sort.

4) I also learned that despite what Mozart might suggest with his “eine kleine nachtmusik”, one does NOT normally pronounce the “e” at the end of “eine”. I had been going around saying “ayn-eh”. It’s just “ayn”. Of course, until it isn’t (like in the song). Weird grammar rules, although I know English has its own idiosyncrasies so I cannot complain too much.

5) I got some insight into the hilarity of new-immigrant speak. I have encountered many a German who spoke like a modern-day Yoda, putting the verb at the end of a request. “I can big water please have?” and such. Well, this is because in German, the verb most often is at the end. For example, “Can I please have the water?” becomes “Kann ich bitte das Wasser habe?” or literally “Can I please the water have?”. Knowing this makes it much easier to deconstruct sentences and try to figure out what I’m hearing.

Unfortunately, I’ve yet to find a good German translation for “Ain’t nobody got time for that”. The best I’ve gotten is “Hat Niemand Zeit dafür” - which literally is “Nobody has time for it.” Not quite the same flair.

6) Finally, and I think this is the best… We had breakout sessions (typical of the meetings I attend), and to get to one of the rooms involved going through a few doors and up some stairs at the hotel. I noticed, on my way, a sign reading “NOT AUSGANG”. I interpreted “ausgang” as exit, which was fundamentally correct - and my brain then interpreted “not” as, well, “not”. So I read the door in my head as “Don’t exit” or that leaving through that door was prohibited. I didn’t think much of it until it occurred to me that it was odd that German used the word “not” like we do, as I thought prohibitions generally used the stronger “verboten” (forbidden). So I brought this up to my boss and a few co-workers. Again, riotous laughter.

Turns out, it wasn’t two words - it was ONE word, “Notausgang” which translates to “Emergency Exit”. As is typical with many German words, it is a compound of two separate words - “not”, which means “distress” and “ausgang” which means “output” - so, literally, “distress output” (which makes sense when you think about it). The running joke was then that if there was a fire, the news would report that a lone American perished and then everyone was imagining me running the floors only to keep finding doors marked “not exit”.

On the upside, though, the language center of my brain IS kicking in like I thought it might. I’ve always been good with languages and if I’m surrounded by one for at least a week, I start intuitively picking up words and putting them together. I have read up on this, and my brain is essentially doing a bargain-basement version of what a baby does - but the difference is like a 1200bps modem versus today’s cable internet. It’s happening, but slowly and with lots of false flags and stops and starts. But

I was very excited today when I stopped by the store to pick up a few items and I was able to check out my goods all in German. To be fair, it’s pretty intuitive that the cashier will say hello, but I understood when asked me for my points card (which I managed to get, all on my own!!! - which is an entirely other story for another day), and I also understood when she asked me if I needed my receipt. I wasn’t able to answer more than “Guten Tag, ja, nein, danke” - but it’s a start. I then was able to buy a roll of pretzel bread (I seriously need to STOP with the bread, it’s becoming a problem) all in German as well. Again not hard - “Eine bretzelbroten, bitte” but it’s a start.

Tuesday, May 5, 2015

Das Job and Such


Heading off to the train station for two days in Frankfurt for work shortly, but quick update here. Started my new job, and so far (2 days in), it’s really great! I have my own office and my boss and I already have a great rapport. He’s incredibly smart and has been in the industry for nearly 20 years and I know I’m going to learn so much from him, and from this role.

I have been pleasantly surprised by the work culture. It is the furthest thing from PC - everyone is open, direct and honest. The working environment is professional but casual, and people have been more friendly than I expected. I am really looking forward to my German lessons, as my “teach myself” method isn’t going to get me anywhere near fluency. I am putting words together to make sentences, and DuoLingo is very helpful, but I still feel quite lost most days.

I’ve made myself a promise with regard to the food. Lay off the brot (bread). The bread here is delicious and comes in oh-so-many tempting varieties. And it is fresh, and cheap. And I pass THREE bakeries on the way to/from work. Someone call Kenny Loggins, because I’m seriously in the danger zone. I’ve found most of what I need in the local Rewe (pronounced Rev-ey) store - and I continue to appreciate the high quality and the freshness of the food. As the store is literally about 5 minutes walking distance, I’m also loving shopping 3-4 times a week. I’m spending less, cooking more. Good stuff… if I can just step away from the bread.

One other point before I head out - the wine. I have tried a local white - it was decent, although a bit sweeter than I prefer. But the big story here are the prices. I bought a bottle of Montepulciano D’Abruzzo red wine and was extremely dubious because the cost was 1.99 Euro. (Basically $2.50 given the current exchange rate). Result? It was DELICIOUS and as good as any $15-20 bottle I had purchased in the U.S.

I suppose I had better re-phrase my resolution. Lay off the bread and wine ;)

Monday, May 4, 2015






So apparently “Erinnerungsfenster” means “reminder window”. As I’m someone you’re not likely to forget, this is pretty awesome #german #multilingual #expatlife #newlanguage #fun #erin




My own office AND welcome flowers?! To quote #annie “I think I’m going to like it here” #newjob #germanadventure #movinonup #travel #expatlife #firstday #germany

Sunday, May 3, 2015





And this is what happens when we go bowling - and yes, I got the Velcros! #friends #uk #england #bowlingwiththehomies #bowling #latergram





What a great whirlwind mini-weekend. So glad to be closer to these crazy ladies! Roll on, adventures! #friends #reunited #reunitedanditfeelssogood #uk #travel #england #bookclub #bebek (at London, UK)

Saturday, May 2, 2015





Finding a hat for #ascot in June. #england #marksandspencer #shopping #uk #fascinator #hats #england #travel #posh





Amazing welcome back to Europe present from the incomparable @jenjupe and @eleanorparker12 ❤️ #friends #england #travel #minibreak (at Pop Bakery)

Friday, May 1, 2015

Londontown!


Back in London for the weekend. I don’t know what it is about this city, but moreso than anywhere else I’ve lived, this place radiates “home”.
I cannot wait to have a cider and a proper shandy and some chips and a cuppa and a scone and… Well you get the picture. Tonight is dinner with a great friend and then tomorrow is shopping and girly fun. I hate being so far away from America again but I love being so close to the UK. A part of me will always be here.




So I’m registering on @vodafone_de and this happens. I know Google Translate isn’t perfect, but really?!! #googletranslate #lostintranslation #germanadventure #travel #weird #girlpower